This month we get to speak to the lovely Sarah Ward who we thankfully got to meet at Burlington Arcade this year for an exhibition with 'Future Icons’. Ever since we have been totally obsessed with Sarah’s intricate detail and beautiful designs. Sarah is the brainchild behind ‘Lark and Bower’, a creative studio that focuses on hand weaving.

Sarah, tell us a bit about your background? Have you always studied textiles?

I studied Textile Design at Central Saint Martins, specialising in Wovens. I graduated in 2010, though I think we all keep learning throughout the duration of our careers, through our experiences and experiments! I actually went to university with the intention of specialising in printed textiles, but weaving happened to be part of the course. And thank goodness! It turned out print was in fact not for me, but I discovered the magic of weaving and never looked back!

What inspires your work?

I have a huge amount of respect for hand craft - the kind that requires patience and time, and the kind of traditions that have survived thousands of years, being passed down from generation to generation. I also have great concern for the environment and the impact that the textile industry has on our planet and our biodiversity. Sustainability and craftmanship are always the driving force behind my work, and mixed into that comes colour. Colour and woven structure provide just endless possibilities and combinations. I take colour inspiration from allover the place - ceramics, interior design, sculpture, paintings, film, photography, history, books. Sometimes inspiration comes from discovering an interesting yarn. And also sometimes from making mistakes on the loom, or a 'happy accident'!

What is the most important part of your process?

As a maker, of course for me the most important part and most enjoyable is when i can finally sit down and make, undisturbed for a few hours. Running a small business involves a lot of admin, outreach, self promotion, sales and marketing - all important too and necessary - but those things can be a little stifling to creativity. There is nothing I love more than sitting down at the loom to weave, putting a podcast on or BBC 6 music, or doing some natural dyeing in the garden - bliss! After all, if you've not dedicated quality time to the creative making process, then you wont have anything to show, educate or inspire others with, which is the really the whole idea.

What do you prefer, off-loom or on-loom? Why?

Good question! I love both. I think for the times when i just need to get an idea out right away, if i have a colour palette in my head and want to see it materialised then i will go to the loom. But for the times when i need to feel that meditative and therapeutic relief, I will go to off-loom weaving. Both are rewarding in their own way and are to me of equal value. I enjoy the set up process of the loom - the threading of the individual warp yarns through the heddles and the reed is repetitive and satisfying in the same way that using a needle and thread to weave every weft on an off-loom piece is.

What has been your favourite project?

It has to be the Ikat Plaid Series. The endless possibilities that come from the combination of checks, colour and ikat are so exciting and have so much milage. Although this is loom weaving it is anything but fast. Each warp and weft yarn must be individually painted prior to weaving, and must be placed carefully during the weaving process for the check to emerge as the cloth grows. The idea behind this project is to appreciate the 'check' design as a work of art in its own right. Checks are typically seen on shirting, bedding, in fashion and interiors, and always as part of a product, a functional, sometimes 'throw-away' item. The Ikat Plaid Series presents checks as framed artworks for the wall, to be cherished, preserved and celebrated the same way a painting or a sculpture would be. My mother is a painter, and i've used her watercolours for colour inspiration for a few of the pieces.

What are you most proud of?

It's a difficult question - I think we spend most of our time thinking about what still needs to be done, about future goals, and not enough time looking back at what we have achieved so far. I suppose I am proud for not giving up, and for having the courage to start a business in the first place. It is a privilege to be able to do my job and I will be proud if I can manage to continue making and educating for the duration of my career.

It’s been a difficult year for us all, what’s one piece of advice you would give a new creative?

Don't put too much pressure on yourself. Most of us have to juggle a few different gigs to fund our work for a long time before working on it full time. Do your research and see what funding is available to you, and be open to doing a spot of teaching from time to time. Don't under sell yourself to get work. Know your value, and the value of your time. None of us know exactly what we are doing, and we are all in the same boat, so let's help each other along. Someone once gave me this advice: 'Spending time thinking about what you're going to do is just as valuable as spending time doing it.' So don't punish yourself for the hours that you are not physically making.

What do you find is the biggest challenge about running your own business?

Juggling, and there not being enough hours in the day! As a one woman band there is always a lot to do, so it's finding a path through it all without loosing sight of the reason for doing it all in the first place - the love of the craft, educating others, and to keep the art of weaving alive, at least for the next generation.

What’s something you couldn’t live without?

A good mattress, hummus, and my lovely rescue greyhound, Kiki! Having the support of my husband and my family is integral to my day to day life, and the continuity of my business. I'd be lost without them.

What’s next in store for Sarah Ward?

'm participating in the Selvedge World Fair in September (3rd-5th), which is a virtual event giving 150 makers from 78 countries the opportunity to tell their stories. I'll be giving a workshop on off-loom weaving and will have a little store front - you can find out more about that here: https://www.selvedge.org/collections/world-fair

I’ll also be showing the Wood Woven Collection and the Ikat Plaid series with Future Icons from 4th - 10th October, as part of London Craft Week.

How can we get our hands on some of your pieces and watch your journey?

You can visit my online shop for made to order pieces:

www.larkandbower/shop

You can also follow my journey via my instagram, @larkandbower where I post works in progress and publish information about upcoming exhibitions, events and workshops.

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We hope you enjoyed reading about Sarah’s journey. I think one thing we realised is you really do have to have a lot of patience and skill to create such beautiful pieces and Sarah definitely has nailed that!

We are excited to also be exhibiting with ‘Lark and Bower’ at the ‘Future Icons’ event for London Craft Week. Come along to the show to see a great group of designers.

Our next ‘ Meet The Maker’ is Gina Pipét who makes luxury fashion products including colourful patterned scarves.

Next ‘Meet the Maker’ will be posted on the 26th September 2021.

Our next ‘Meet the Maker’ is American weaver Meghan Spielman. Her work has always caught our eye because she has such a passion for colour and texture. She specialises in jacquard and computerised-dobby weaving creating beautiful artworks that we one day hope to own ourselves!

Meghan, tell us a bit about your background? Have you always studied textiles?

I started out studying fashion design at Parsons in New York. By the end of my time there I realised that I was more interested in constructing textiles than garments. While in school, I did an internship at a textile mill in Paris where I first learned how to weave. Speaking very little French myself it was an amazing way to connect with people through making rather than language. From then on, I never stopped weaving. I went on to study a Master’s in weaving at the Royal College of Art, which allowed me the time and resources to explore textiles in a fine art context. 

What inspires your work?

The interaction of colour, material, and structure are at the core of my work. My process is quite intuitive and reactive, which I relate to abstract painting. I have always admired abstract painters, especially females such as Georgia O’Keefe and Hilma Af Klint. I am interested in making pieces that invite the viewer to pause and take their time to discover all of the moments within the work, either quiet or complex, and ultimately ask the question, what are the boundaries between painting and textiles? At what point is something classified as one or the other? 

What is the most important part of your process?

It’s difficult to pick one thing, but I would say collecting materials is a very important part of my process. Having a wide range of colours and fibers available while I am weaving a piece is crucial, it allows me to react and discover interactions that I never could have planned - and I love the spontaneity! 

Have you always had a good eye and passion for colour?

I worked for several years as a colourist for interior textiles, which allowed me to spend countless hours pondering, researching, and playing with colour. Colour has always been an integral element of my artwork, and the interaction of colour is what interests me the most. I often feel like I am indulging in colour combinations that excite me while I weave, and I question whether to jump in or hold back. 

What has been your favourite collaboration?

Recently I launched a collaboration of 100% Donegal wool blankets and pillows with Vevar, a bespoke mill based in Glasgow. The collection transcribes the language of my woven artwork into accessible home products that can be cherished for years to come. 

What are you most proud of?

Good question! I am proud of continuing to overcome the many fears and uncertainties that come along with investing in yourself and taking the leap into your own business.

It’s been a difficult year for us all, what’s one piece of advice you would give a new creative?

Connect with artists/makers that you admire and find your community. Things have certainly slowed down for everyone this past year, offering support and listening to shared experiences will help us all get through. 

What do you find is the biggest challenge about running your own business?

I love the freedom of choosing how to spend my time, but I find deciding how to prioritise that quite challenging. I always want to put making artwork first (of course it’s what I enjoy the most!) but if I also don’t spend the time to promote it, my work won’t reach anyone. It’s a balancing act. 

What’s something you couldn’t live without?

GPS navigation, weave structures make sense to me – a sense of direction does not!

What’s next in store for Meghan Speilman?

Recently I relocated my studio from Brooklyn, New York to Bozeman, Montana. Having grown up in Montana I am so excited to return to nature and family and have more time and space to pursue my artwork. I am looking forward to making a new body of work inspired by this shift, hopefully at a large scale!

How can we get our hands on some of your pieces and watch your journey?

I always welcome sales and commission inquiries through my website www.meghanspielman.com or Instagram @meghan_spielman 

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We went to Royal College of Art with Meghan and it has been so lovely reading what she is up to. We also have to agree - a GPS is very much needed! We have always been obsessed with the colour and texture Meghan creates in her artworks so it is so great to hear all about her journey, we hope you enjoyed reading her story too!

Our next ‘ Meet The Maker’ is on and off the loom weaver Sarah Ward, who is the owner of Lark and Bower.

Next ‘Meet the Maker’ will be posted on the 29th of August 2021.

Our next ‘Meet the Maker’ is Tom Collison. We are even more excited about this interview because we are currently in the process of working on a collaboration together. Tom is mostly known for his beautiful ‘Burl Stools’. The term ‘Burl’ refers to the knotty growths found on trees, which are formed to create extra support. We love his story where his admiration for nature comes from growing up in his parents and grandparents garden and playing in the woods amongst the trees and this is how his fascination spiralled.

Tom, tell us a bit about your background? Have you always studied textiles?

I've always found it difficult to stick to one discipline, I get distracted easily and always want to try new things. I started studying Art & Design as a BA then switched over to Printed Textiles and Surface Pattern Design for my BA.

When it came to studying for an MA at the Royal College of Art I was torn between applying for Design Products or Mixed Media Textiles. I went with textiles as I felt it would be best to play to my strengths.

In hindsight, I'm glad I did it allowed me to explore the world of furniture making from a unique angle.

I took a couple of years away from design to pursue my love of food and become a cook and baker, which I really loved, there are so many similarities in the creativity of cooking and baking to creating objects. Both are processes of trial and testing, both require a lot of physical endurance and both are ultimately aimed to make people happy.

What inspires your work?

I'm inspired by materials and processes, I've always liked playing with a material until I can make something interesting out of it. I remember when I was in primary school I would collect the weird dusty mud you'd find on the edge of the playground and put it in bottles, to take it home to mix with water and make mud sculptures. Unfortunately, I don't do that anymore but I do like to find bits of wood or other materials and wondering what would be an interesting process to render their surfaces.

I'm also extremely interested in the dysfunctional forms in nature. Not so much the pretty flowers and landscape but more the strange bulges and burls you see in trees, or the curvy lines you see in cut wood which show their growth. I like materials to be dysfunctional and wonky it's a comforting reflection of humanity.

What is the most important part of your process?

Sourcing materials I find inspiring and experimenting with them. I enjoy drawing I think it's good to get ideas down on paper but playing with materials always comes before drawing for me.

We are currently collaborating on some exciting new one-of-a-kind pieces of furniture together. What made you want to do a collaboration with DUO-HUE by Amelia Ayerst?

I think we are all so familiar with textiles there are so many ways in which you can manipulate textiles through print, dying, stitching weaving but so much has been done with textiles it's hard to find something new.

I feel like DUO - HUE is something different, it's a fault or accident in a process which opens a whole new process within digital embroidery playing on colour.

I feel we have different strengths, I could never create beautiful digital works in fabric so it's a great chance to have a chance to use them in my work. I think we have two different approaches and we will create something really dynamic, which could teach us both a lot about our processes.

What are you most proud of?

I'm proud of the work I've been creating recently, I don't think I would have said that a few years ago. I've always felt my work most seem a bit odd to other people but the last couple of years I've had a really positive response to its oddness and now I take a lot of pride in showing it off. Having a studio and space to make things full scale has been a real turning point to me and I'm proud of getting to this position.

It’s been a difficult year for us all, what’s one piece of advice you would give a new creative?

Making has defiantly been an escape this year. I'd say to focus on your creative pursuit and make everything else work around it, don't make your creative pursuit work around everything else in life.

What do you find is the biggest challenge about running your own business?

Admin + Finances. Also working out when to live and when to work!

What’s something you couldn’t live without?

Art, Food, Travel….Wine

How can we shop your products and follow your journey?

I have just launched a few one-off pieces in collaboration with CUSTHOM, Available on their website (https://www.custhom.co.uk/shop/product-category/seating/ ). Keep an eye on my website (www.tomcollison.com) as I will be launching new products very very soon and will be announcing new stockists soon. Also my Instagram @tomcollison for launches and updates.

What’s next in store for Tom Collison?

Obviously, our collaboration, which I'm super excited about as I think it will produce some really interesting pieces.
I'm also working on a few new pieces, I'm moving away from stools and benches and into the world of chairs which is very exciting.
I've been talking to a couple of companies regarding some collaborations with one brand, in particular, I'm really excited to work with. Hopefully a lot of new exciting work over the next few months.

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It’s been lovely chatting to Tom Collison, we have known each other for years, yet I feel like I have discovered a lot more about his journey today which is fascinating. We hope you found it as interesting as we did! We can’t wait to share our collaboration with you later this year!

Our next ‘ Meet The Maker’ is American weaver Meghan Spielman who has an eye for colour that we are obsessed with!

Next ‘Meet the Maker’ will be posted on the 25th of July 2021.

Our second ‘Meet the Maker’ is the very talented Lora Avedian. Lora has worked as a set designer and prop stylist for about six years where she realised her passion for textiles. In 2015 Lora decided to change her career by doing Mixed Media Textiles MA at the Royal College of Art. Since then, Lora has been working hard on lots of new projects which we will hear a lot more about below.

So Lora, what inspires your work?

It’s a lot of different elements that come together really, it can be different for different projects but generally I look at historical textiles and other kinds of objects in museums or things I collect second hand. Sometimes I look at fashion, other times I get inspired by photography, it can be one thing for colour, another for the texture or material use.  

What’s the most important part of your process?

Finding the right materials and colour is a big part of it, and drawing is also really important for my embroidery designs.

What has been your favourite collaboration?

My favourite collaborations are working with photographers to create a narrative around the project or product I have made. I love working with photographers and I style the work myself, so we work really closely together on the project. I particularly love working on projects with Suzie Howell, her style of photography and use of light is so beautiful. She worked with me on my final RCA collection, and I felt our styles worked really well together.  

What are you most proud of?

I am really proud of the project I did a few years ago with the Barbican Centre, As part of a residency I did there they asked me to design their first ever Christmas decorations around the centre which was unheard of until then. I am also really proud of the embroidery book I have written over lock down, and is being published on the 20th May by Hardie Grant Publishing.

It’s been a difficult year for us all, what’s one piece of advice you would give a new creative?

Keep working hard and don’t worry about what everyone else is doing. Do your own thing and if you’re passionate about it people will see that and want to be a part of it. Also don’t be ashamed to talk about what you do to people, and shout about yourself on whatever social media you like, Instagram has been an amazing business tool for me and really helped me engage with people in a way I never thought I would.

What do you find the biggest challenge about running your own business?

Keeping up with everything and making time to look after myself and rest! I am a bit of a work-a-holic… I also find it hard to say no to things, but I am getting better at that.

How can we get our hands on some of your pieces and watch your journey?

I updated my website to include my shop www.loraavedian.com, you can buy some of my textiles from The New Craftsmen, and you can follow me on @loraavedian on Instagram.

What’s next in store for Lora Avedian?

Apart from my new book, I have a collaboration with the V&A coming out in Autumn of this year, and a collaboration with a small fashion brand I am really excited about. More workshops and teaching at West Dean College in the summer. It’s going to be a busy year!

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We loved exploring Lora’s beautiful hand embroidery. We have already pre ordered our copy of her new book ‘Stitch In Bloom’ and have our eye on her workshops!

Our next ‘ Meet The Maker’ is Tom Collison who creates beautiful crafted furniture out of wood.

Next ‘Meet the Maker’ will be posted on the 27th of June 2021.

We are really excited to have Hannah Refaat as our first ‘Meet the Maker’. After graduating from RCA in Mixed Media textiles, Hannah worked with Alexander McQueen and Julien Macdonald before taking the plunge and starting her own embroidery business focusing on an eclectic colourful range of luxury accessories and garments, including ties and pocket squares. Hannah is based at Cockpit Arts’ in London and has been featured in The Wedding Collective, Boho Wedding and Craft Council Directories, Selvedge, Town & Country.

So Hannah, what inspires your work?

As a British-Egyptian textile designer, I am really inspired by my heritage. My work is a combination of hand and machine embroidered textiles. I explore the landscape and environment of the Middle East - a part of the world where I’ve spent many months forming countless precious memories over the years.

My menswear accessory collection was initially inspired by my Dad, a child and adolescent psychiatrist with a penchant for colourful bowties, staying true to stereotypes of his profession! After realising how memorable my Dad’s unique sartorial expression was, I was inspired to create one-off pieces of art that can be worn with a tailored suit.

What is the most important part of your process?

The most important part of my process is layering a range of material and technique. I do this by using interesting colour combinations, contrasting material surfaces and weights and a range of textures in print and stitch techniques. I tend to do as little planning as possible as that usually limits my creativity in the composition. I work extremely organically and intuitively. 

The hand techniques I use include cross-stitch, which is often used in the Middle East, feather stitch, running stitch, satin stitch and stem stitch. I also layer techniques, such as hand painted screen prints, with embroidery and fabric manipulation, like pleating.

Every material I use is carefully considered; I make sure that I use different weights and surfaces to create layers and depth to my work. I think that the contrast of lightweight against dense, and shine against matte, are qualities which are really important to my process. I’m also really interested in combining two materials that aren’t frequently seen together. 

It’s been a difficult year for us all, what’s one piece of advice you would give a new creative?

Being in the creative industry is extremely difficult as the skills and creative talent you have don’t always align with other tools necessary to run a successful business. For example, I’m dyslexic so I find it more challenging to write, which is obviously important when you are doing things like submitting applications for grants or focusing on the PR and marketing side of your business. 

I think that sometimes in the creative industry, where our ideas and designs are ultimately our livelihood, we live in this fear that if we invite others in, we may get taken advantage of. But a lot of the time this can be a hindrance, as being open to collaborating with others and sharing your own journey to help those in the industry are still really fundamental to your own success. You can always learn from other people, whatever stage you are at in your career.

It’s also easy to get swayed in different directions which you may not feel like you want to take when seeking advice as a new creative. Whilst taking advice from experienced creatives and businesses is really necessary, it’s also so important to stay true to your own values and what you want to achieve. Attend workshops, continue to learn and educate yourself even after your studies, and speak to people with more experience. 

What do you find the biggest challenge about running your own business?

Marketing is something I never learnt about or researched until starting my business and it’s something that I’ve had to keep on top of as the landscape has changed, particularly where the presence of social media is now booming. It takes a lot of time and I find it distracts you from the making, so it’s something I would like to outsource when my business grows.

Whats next in store for Hannah Refaat?

I’ve been selected to exhibit at the following London events that showcase the best of emerging brands in front of an international audience. These include:

• The Future of Craft Selects, October 2021.

• Spotted at Top Draw September 2021.

• Inland Showroom Launch: May 2021.

• Selvedge World Fair, Sept 2021.

• Cockpit Arts Open Studios June 2021.

How can we get our hands on some of your wonderful pieces and watch your journey?

You can order online from my website for made-to-order ready to wear accessories.

www.hannahrefaat.com/shop

Instagram: @hannahrefaat

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We loved exploring Hannah’s beautiful embroidery and how she is not shy of colour like ourselves! The detail and attention to detail is something that we have always been drawn to.

Our next ‘ Meet The Maker’ is Lora Avedian who uses traditional embroidery and embellishment to create beautiful modern pieces.

Next ‘Meet the Maker’ will be posted on the 30th of May 2021.

Firstly, thank you for subscribing to our email listing. We are excited to announce that once a month we will now be sharing some of our favourite makers with you. To begin, we thought we should introduce ourselves.

Amelia Ayerst is the maker and founder of DUO-HUE. She developed the stitch whilst studying at the Royal College of Art (RCA). Amelia has a background in CMF design (Colour, Materials and Finish). Previous projects include work with Priestmann Goode as well as showcasing designs at Somerset House for Design Week. Her latest work was with Dyson on their automotive project. Amelia worked closely with James Dyson and the design team on designing the interior and exterior materials on the car. You can see Amelia’s designs and models that she worked on here.

All of Amelia’s embroidery is designed and created in her studio in Bristol. Due to her CMF background, she can work with designers on creating bespoke embroidery to suit different concepts. Exploring colour, material and pattern to bring a concept to life. Amelia is now doing what she loves and launched DUO-HUE on the 10th of Feb 2021.

Our first ‘Meet the Maker’ will be Hannah Reefat who creates beautiful hand and machine embroidered textiles. We will be chatting to her about her pieces and find out what inspires her.

You can read this article on the 25th of April.

Photography by Nic Kane.